Leaving Haiti in a 21’ boat with the Caribbean’s bravest sailors.
Off the Deep End
I followed Hannah as she swam over the sand and then up the gently sloping mountain of coral in front of us. I could feel the pressure subsiding—ninety feet, then seventy, sixty, forty—until we came to the top of the reef, at about thirty-five feet. There were green needlefish hovering here, a blue-tinged Caribbean spiny lobster jammed into a crevice, and waves of lettuce coral and gorgonian fans. A four-foot barracuda paid no attention to us, which is what you want from a barracuda. Decompressing in a motionless float, I shared the current with bright, tiny fairy basslets and a pair of gray angelfish that moved in devoted tandem. The reef was a vibrant collage of soft and hard coral thick with fish. Long barrel sponges gave shelter to a balloonfish, a school of mackerel whipped by, there was a black grouper, and an eagle ray fanned past on its way to the shallows.
The Sweetest Villains
The Sweetest Villains: In Prewar Syria, a farewell tour for archaeology, peace, and dictators.
The Beautiful Game: Soccer Violence
The singing builds, the flags wave, and for a while we are inside the joyous machine of a fan club, exactly where I always dreaded, a stomping, jeering, cheering, and drunken band of warriors. The enemy—the Brazilian team Fluminense—takes the field amid a deafening chorus of 40,000 boos. When Boca comes out, the stadium explodes into a wall of bass drums and chanting: Dale, dale, Bo! Dale, dale, Bo! Dale, dale, Bo! Bo-ca! Let’s go, Boca!
The visiting team gives the stadium a scare: two quick attacks on goal. La Doce only sings louder, draining the atmosphere with a version of “Volare” for 20,000 voices.
Three ways to see and save the Caribbean’s imperiled reefs.
Sand Storm: Yemen on the Brink
In the wilds of Yemen, the Arab revolution changes everything.
Path of Dreams: The Trip of a Lifetime in Uganda
A war refugee turned MD takes the plunge into Africa’s gorilla country.
A 12,000-mile ride through South America, and the life and legacy of Che Guevara.
The Boys From Dolores
Fidel Castro’s Schoolmates From Revolution to Exile.